Wednesday, September 23, 2009

Tulsa's Lebanese Tradition: Cedar's Deli

By Carolyn Siegerist

In a small shopping complex between 21st and 31st on Sheridan sits an indistinct looking Lebanese restaurant. A neon sign says "The Cedar's Deli," but you might miss it if you didn't know what you were looking for.

Though it may not look like it, Cedar's Deli has been selling homemade Lebanese cuisine to Tulsans in that spot for over 40 years. I decided to go in and have a gyro with some hummus on the side, a meal I often get at Lebanese restaurants.

I saw quite a different crowd than what I had expected. Cedar's Deli is primarily a lunch restaurant, made apparent by the long line at the counter. The entire eating area was packed with all sorts of people: businessmen, couples in their golden years, a group of younger women presumably at a "girl's luncheon," and so on.

Since my grandfather has been a client for the last 20 years, I asked the owner if I could ask him a little bit about the restaurant, mentioning the fact that my grandfather was such a fan.

Sam H. Farhood, the original and current owner, replied: "You grandfather is Jim? And your grandmother is Carol? Such lovely people. Your aunt Stacey too, why she was just in the other day!"

Maybe in a city the size of Tulsa I shouldn't be surprised that he would know customers so well, but it wasn't just my family he knew. As I watched patrons finish their meals, several took time to chat it up with Sam, who seemed to know them all.

Sam then took me to his office and handed me a fact sheet about Lebanon, which I realized later were made available in the front of the restaurant for all patrons. He explained his move to America as a child knowing no English whatsoever, how he grew up in Tulsa and became a teacher, and how he brought back a wife from Lebanon, Nuhad, and how they decided to open a restaurant together.

Nuhad, currently visiting family in Lebanon, does a great deal of the cooking and their son, Jason, also works at the restaurant.

The eclectic decor in Cedar's includes maps of Lebanon, flags for all the main universities in Oklahoma, and a collection of awards and newspaper clippings about the deli.

As I left, Sam gave me a big hug and told me to say hello to the family. I felt that just by coming in and asking him about his restaurant, which has been his life's work, I had ingratiated myself with him and that he will always recognize me.

I think this place is a perfect example of the mix of the strong cultural influence created by immigration, blended with the small town feeling hospitality of Oklahoma. I would encourage anyone to try out Cedar's, if not for the hospitality, at least to try the delicious authentic Lebanese cuisine.

Carolyn Siegerist recently returned from a semester in Spain. She is a TU communication major from Stillwater, Oklahoma.

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